Bike battery bms broken hookup

I did a suite of tests, tried a few techniques recommended on forums and by the lead tech at Luna Cycle, and eventually confirmed my BMS — Battery Management System — was broken and needed to be replaced.
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I did a suite of tests, tried a few techniques recommended on forums and by the lead tech at Luna Cycle, and eventually confirmed my BMS — Battery Management System — was broken and needed to be replaced.

My electric bike is semi-custom. It is built like a custom, but by Luna Cycle in the USA. It has a Bafang (, “Eight Sides Electrical Appliances”) motor with a 50A controller that Luna Cycle calls their “Ludicrous” controller, though I have it set to operate in 25A mode.

Because 2020 was a crazy year, it ended up being stored fully charged, and allowed to fully deplete, while in storage. This isn’t good for an eBike battery, it turned out, and so a few things needed to be done to get it back on the road.

Even though this might appear to be a guide for one kind of electric bike battery,it’s generally applicable to all e-Bike batteries, and even batteries on other devices like scooters and mobility devices.

The first (and easiest) thing to test is the charger.You measure the output voltage. For a 52V battery like mine, it should be supplying about 58V. For a 48V battery it should supply around 54V.

After you measure the output voltage, you do what’s called the “light bulb test” — where you use an incandescent bulb hooked up to the outlet. This is easier in America (or Japan I guess) where the voltage supply is 110V, but it still works with 220V bulbs.

Also, open up your e-bike battery and check all the wires are intact, and that none of the solder joints have broken. Bikes get beaten up and it’s possible — likely— that a joint will fail at some point, especially if your battery has gone flying across the road because you forget to lock it (guilty! Actually I lost the key for a while…)

About Bike battery bms broken hookup

About Bike battery bms broken hookup

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